Crocodile Stitch Purse

This is the original purse I made this pattern for. It worked up pretty fast after I figured out how the stitch was done. I took it slow and worked on it over two nights, but it could have easily been done in one night.

I tried to write this pattern so that it is easy to customize and make the way you really want it. Have fun making this pattern in different sizes and color combinations!

This was a pattern I made up as I went so please let me know if you have any trouble with it.

Notes:

This pattern is mostly “crocodile stitch.” Once you figure it out, it is really easy. However, beginners to crochet may have difficulty figuring out the stitch from only a written pattern. If you find that you are having trouble, check out this blog ( http://yarn-muse.blogspot.com/2011/01/crocodile-stitch.html ) for a few fantastic videos on exactly how this “stitch” is done. The only difference between what you see in the videos and what you will do in this pattern is that the videos show you how to work the stitch in flat rows while in this pattern you will be working in a circle.

As you progress through each row of this pattern, the “scales” should be off-set from each other. The point of the “scale” in one row should rest between two “scales” of the previous row. If this is not the case, make sure when you start row 4 (and every repeat of row 4) that your first 2 DC (it will read “ch 3, dc in same sp) is worked into the space BETWEEN two “scales” and NOT in the center of a “scale”

Materials:

Worsted weight yarn (The exact amount of yarn needed for this pattern varies based on personal preference for bag and strap sizes.)

Size H/8-5.00MM Crochet hook

Yarn needle

Button if you would like a closure.

4 Stitch markers

Pattern:

1.) Ch 34, (If you would like a larger or smaller bag, simply make the base chain the length you would like for the width of your purse. The only rule is that it MUST be a number divisible by three and THEN add ONE stitch to that number. This extra stitch makes up for the height of the sc you will be working around the chain.) sc in 2^nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch. Turn and sc in each ch sp down the other side of the ch, join with a sl st. (66 sc around [If you changed the number of base chains, subtract the one stitch you added and multiply by 2 to get the number of stitches you should have around to start with])

2.) Ch 3(counts as your first dc), Dc in st you joined to. *ch 2, sk 2 sts, 2dc in next st* around. Join with a sl st to 3^rd ch of ch3.

3.) Ch 1, (working AROUND the posts of dc from previous row) [5 dc around first dc, ch 1, work 5 dc around next dc]ßThis makes one “scale”. *skip next 2 dc and work 5 dc around next dc, ch 1, 5 dc around next dc* around, join with a sl st to first dc of the first “scale” in the row.

If making this purse with stripes, fasten off and switch colors.

4.) Working through both layers,(If joining a new color: join with a sl st to the space between “scales” and through the 2 skipped dc from previous row.) From this point on, when making the pairs of dc, make sure you are working through both layers of the previous row. Both the space between the scales and the space between the 2 skipped DC from the previous row. Ch 3, dc in same sp, *ch 2, 2 dc in space at center of “scale”, ch 2, 2 dc in space between “scales”* around. Join with a sl st.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until purse is the desired height.

Fasten off.

The rest of the purse will be worked with two strands of yarn at the same time. If you have been working the pattern in stripes, I would suggest using one strand of both colors. If you used more than two colors, either pick the two colors you think will look best or pick a single color.

5.) Using two strands of yarn, and making sure you are going through both layers of the previous row, join to any stitch with a sl st. Ch 1 and SC around putting 2 SC around each DC, 1 SC between each “scale”, and 1 SC in the center of each “scale.” Join with a sl st to the first sc in the row.

6.) Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with a sl st and fasten offß ONLY IF YOU ARE GOING TO ADD A LINING. If not, simply join, and move onto row 7.

At this point, you want to decide if you are going to put a lining in your purse. I highly recommend doing this. Due to the way this pattern is worked, it is easy for small things (pens, chapstick, change, lipstick, etc.) to slip through the sides.

To make a lining: Cut two pieces of fabric roughly the same size of your purse. With right sides together, sew around three edges, leaving one side open. LEAVE RIGHT SIDES TOGHETER! Fold the open edge down to create a “hem.” Slip lining into purse and line up the edge of the “hem” with the edge of the purse. Using a sewing machine or by hand, sew the lining to the purse. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT SEW OVER THE TOPS OF THE STITCHES. You will need to be able to crochet through them to finish the purse.

7.) (If you added a lining, join to any st close to one end with a sl st) Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with a sl st to first sc or row. If you are adding a button closure this is the row to make the button hole. To do this, in the center of one side, chain 1-3 and skip 1-3 sts depending on the size of your button. (If you use a small button, you may only need to ch 1, sk 1. However, if you use a large button, you may have to ch 3, sk 3.)

8.) Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with a sl st to first sc of row. If you added a button hole, make sure you sc in the sk st space. (If you chained 1 you will have 1 sc in the space, if you chained two, you will have 2 sc in the space, and so on.)

Now you are going to make the straps. There are a few things you need to decide at this point. 1.) How long do you want the straps? 2.) How close to the center of the bag do you want them to attach? Once you decide where you want the straps attached, place stitch markers at and even distance on both sides of the bag. (You should have 4 stitch markers. Two on each side of the bag.)

9.) Ch 1, sc to the first stitch marker. Ch 20 + (depending on how long you want your straps to be), sc at next stitch marker and in each st to next marker, ch the same amount you chained for the last strap, sc at marker and in each remaining st. Join with a sl st to first sc of row.

10.) Ch1, sc in each st and ch around, join with a sl st. Fasten off and weave in ends.

For Button: Using the button hole you made as a guide, attach button to the INSIDE of the opposite side of bag.

Crochet Washable Swiffer Sweeper Pad

I love how simple it is to use my Swiffer Sweeper. What I don't love is constantly having to buy new boxes of wet or dry cloths for the thing. I get the appeal of the whole "throw the dirt out with the cloth" thing, but after a while all those cloths add up in cost. When I think about it, I also feel a bit guilty about all the extra waste disposable cloths add to our trash can. So I decided to make my own that are easy on your pocket and better for the planet!

These pads are awesome for other uses as well. They make great washcloths for dishes or other household cleaning and they are AMAZING to use when washing the car. Washable and multipurpose! 

This crochet pad fits the standard Swiffer Sweeper and can be used either dry or wet.

Just press edges into the cloth holders on your Swiffer Sweeper and sweep away. If you want to use it as a wet mop, simply soak in your favored floor cleaner, wring out, and attach to your Swiffer Sweeper. (I also like to use a spray bottle and spray my cleaner on the floor and start with a dry pad. It works just as good as soaking it!)

(Not sure how noticeable it is, but I made a mistake on this one. You can see it in the lower right corner. I missed a puff stitch. Annoying for me, but not the end of the world with something like this. Everyone makes mistakes.)

Materials:
Size H/8-5.00MM Crochet hook
Yarn Needle
Cotton Yarn. (I used 1 ball of Peaches and Cream brand in Bright Pink for the one pictured.)

Puff Stitch: This stitch is also often also called a popcorn stitch. To work this stitch, *YO, ( yarn over) insert hook into st, YO, pull through st* 5 times (Other patterns might use less than 5 for the puff st but this pattern needs the added bulk) YO, pull through all but the last loop on hook, YO pull through both loops on hook.

As you work this pattern you may feel like the pad is going to be slightly too small. As long as you are using cotton yarn and size H hook, I wouldn't worry too much about it. After adding the edge and after the stitches relax a bit it will fit just fine. If you crochet a bit tight or are using a smaller hook, you may have to either use a larger hook or adjust the chain count in Rnd: 1.

Pattern:

Rnd 1: Ch 31, sc in 2^nd ch from hook and in each ch across.

Rnd 2-5: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.

Rnd 6: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 2 sts, *puff st in next st, sc in next st* across ending with 1 sc in each of the last 3 sts.

Rnd 7: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.

Rnd 8: Ch 1, turn sc in next 3 sts, *puff st in next st, sc in next st* across ending with 1 sc in each of the last 2  sts.

Rnd 9: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.

Repeat Rows 6-9 three more times.

Rnd 10-12: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. DO NOT FASTEN OFF

Edge: Ch 1, turn sc in each st and row around working 3 sc in each corner. Join with a sl st to first sc of edge, fasten off and weave in ends.

Puff Stitch Slouchy Beanie (Child size pictured. Pattern includes adult size as well.)

Recently I've been looking at hat patterns online. I was looking for inspiration and trying to decide what type of hat I wanted to make. I wanted something fun that would work up fairly quickly. While looking, it didn't take me long to stumble across the blog All About Ami and the Urban Jungle Crochet Slouchy Beanie by: Vickie Howell. 

There were several things I loved about this pattern including the texture of the puff stitch, the wide, flat band, and the loose slouchy style. 

There were, however, a few things I did not like about the pattern.The first thing I didn't like was that the band was worked separately from the main body of the hat. I like the added strength of having them worked together. My main issue with the Urban Jungle pattern is that it is worked in a tube and then you have to "close" the end of the hat. I didn't like the added bulk and generally messy look "closing" the hat creates.

Because of the things I didn't like about this pattern, I decided to write my own with the Urban Jungle Beanie as inspiration. This pattern is worked in rounds starting with the back of the hat instead of the band and using increases to build the "slouch" so that you don't have to "close" the hat at the end. This also takes away some of the added bulk and results in less yarn being used over all. I also worked the band into the pattern instead of having it worked separate from the main body of the hat.

Pictures included are of the child size. Adult size is included in the pattern.

This pattern works up fairly quickly and is easy enough for a beginner to follow. The pattern is worked in such a way that makes it easy to use multiple colors and even work the whole thing in stripes. Have fun experimenting with this one!

This was a quick write up so if you come across any problems or have questions about any part of this pattern, please leave a comment and I will answer as soon as I can.

Enjoy,

Stormi

 My daughter sporting the Slouchy Beanie I just finished.

 I love the texture of the puff stitches in this hat!

 Because of the way I wrote up this pattern, the back looks super neat and has no added bulk.

Cute flower I decided to add to the band of my daughter's hat. It was not originally a part of this pattern, but it looked so cute I decided to include it at the end of this pattern. (Flower looks a little weird in this pic.)

Materials:

Size J-10/6.00MM Crochet Hook

1 1/2 - 2 balls of Peaches & Cream (or similar) 100% cotton, worsted weight yarn. (Color pictured is Black Currant) You can use yarn of a different material (such as Acrylic) however, depending on the material you use and the weight of the yarn, it might change the look and feel of the finished hat. Also, when using other types of yarn keep in mind that changing weights will affect the size of the hat.

Yarn needle

Stitches:

Ch: Chain

Sl St: Slip Stitch

Sc: Single Crochet

Puff: Puff Stitch

To work a puff stitch:

Work (Yo, (yarn over) insert hook into st or space, yo and pull through) 3 times (you should have 7 loops on your hook.) Yo and pull through all but the last loop on the hook. Yo and pull through last two loops.

Pattern:

Rnd 1: Ch 5, join with a slst to the first ch to form a loop. Work (puff st, ch 1) into the loop 6 times. Join with a sl st to the top of the first puff st.

Rnd 2: Work (puff st, ch 1, puff st, ch 1) into each ch 1 space around, join with a sl st to the top of first puff st.

Rnd 3: *puff st, ch 1 in next st, (puff st, ch 1, puff st, ch 1) in next st* Rep from *to* around. Join with a sl st to the top of first puff st.

Rnd 4: *puff st, ch 1 in next 2 sts, (puff st, ch 1, puff st, ch 1) in next st* Rep from *to* around. Join with a sl st to the top of first puff st.

Rnd 5: *puff st, ch 1 in next 3 sts, (puff st, ch 1, puff st, ch 1) in next st* Rep from *to* around. Join with a sl st to the top of first puff st.

If you would like to make a child sized hat, after finishing Rnd 5, skip ahead to Rnds 8-14.

Rnd 6: *puff st, ch 1 into next 4 sts, (puff st, ch 1, puff st, ch 1) in next st* Rep from *to* around. Join with a sl st to the top of first puff st.

Rnd 7: *puff st, ch 1 into next 5 sts, (puff st, ch 1, puff st, ch 1) in next st* Rep from *to* around. Join with a sl st to the top of first puff st.

If you would like your hat to be wider/puffier add another row or two of increases here. ( “into next 6 sts… into next 7 sts…” ect) Keep in mind that adding increase rows will also add to the size of the finished opening of the hat. You may have to add decrease rows to make the hat fit your head. (I will get into that later when you will need to know how to do them.)

Rnds 8-14 : *puff st, ch 1 into next st* repeat from *to* around. Join with a sl st to the top of first puff st.

If you would like your hat to be longer add another few rows here before you move onto the band of single crochets.

Rnd 15: Ch 1, sc in each ch 1 sp around and join with a sl st to the first sc in the row. (You want to make the stitches in this row a bit tight. Because of the wide space between them, they will want to pull a little loose. If you keep these stitches tight then you will have to do fewer/no decrease stitches to make the hat fit your head.)

Rnds 16-21 : Ch 1, sc in each st around and join with a sl st to the first sc in the row. After last row fasten off and weave in ends.

If you added increase rows to make your hat wider/puffier or if you need to make the opening of the hat smaller to fit your head or the head of a child, you will need to replace one or more of Rnds 16-21 with decrease rows.  

To do a decrease row, you will want to sc in each stitch around while evenly spacing 6 sets of (sc 2 tog) This is pretty much the opposite of the increase row. For example, instead of working *sc into the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the next st* you will work *sc into the next 5 sts, sc 2 tog*.

Sc 2 tog: insert hook into next st, yo and pull through st, insert hook into next st, yo and pull through st, yo and pull through both loops on hook. This basically turns two sts into one in the next row.

Don't worry if you need to add one or more single crochet decrease rows to the band. I think this hat also looks great with a wider band.

Flower: (Not necessary but it looks super cute for children hats.)
Ch 5, sl st into first ch to form a loop.

Ch 1, sc in loop, ch 3, *sc into loop, ch 3* repeat from *to* until you have 5 "Petal Loops" join with a sl st into first sc.

Work *sc, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, sc* into each "petal loop" to form the petals of the flower, join with a sl st to the first sc, fasten off leaving a tail long enough to sew on flower.

Using yarn needle, place the flower on the band. I like to place the flower over "seam" in the band made by joining the ends of rows.

It's a Crochet Bow Tie - I Crochet Bow Ties Now - Bow Ties Are Cool!

I spent about an hour looking for crochet bow tie patterns online and found none that I liked. Every pattern I could find used yarn and I really don't like the way they look in the end. So at the end of the hour, I decided to write up a pattern of my own using thread instead for a more tight and classy look.

Materials:

Size 10 Crochet Thread (See below for type) 

Size 7 / 1.65mm crochet hook

Needle for weaving in ends

Starch (If you want to starch the ends. I recommend it.)

I have had several questions about the type of thread used for this pattern. The "thread" needed is NOT the kind you would use for sewing or embroidering. You need crochet thread. This is the kind of thread you will usually see used to crochet doilies or lace-type tablecloths. I usually use the Red Heart Classic Crochet Thread you can find at nearly any Walmart (as my town lacks anywhere else to buy yarn, thread, etc.). You can usually find it close to where most stores stock their yarn. At Walmart it is usually on the same isle as the yarn. In other stores like, Hobby Lobby or Joann's, they usually stock it on the end of an isle. No matter what brand you end up buying, they will all look similar to the pic below.

Terms:

·         Decrease Row: Ch 1, turn, sc 2 tog, sc in next st and in each st across

·         Increase Row: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in next st and in each st across

Pattern: [Main pattern makes a large "Bow" when tied. For a smaller sized "Bow" use stitch numbers inside ( ) In rows where you do increases and decreases, you will end up doing 5 less rows then the pattern says for the smaller sized "Bow" ]

1.                                           Ch 21(16), turn sc in 2^nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (20 (15) sts)

2-4.                  Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.

5-19.                Decreased rows. (Last row will have 5 sts.)

20.                   Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.

21-35.              Increase Rows (Last row will have 20 (15) sts.)

36-43.              Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.

44-58.              Decrease rows. (Last row will have 5 sts.)

59-203.            Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (If you need this bow tie to fit larger or smaller neck sizes, simply add or leave off rows from this section)

204-217.          Increase rows (Last row will have 20 (15) sts.)

218-225.          Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.

226-240.          Decrease rows (last row will have 5 sts)

241-242.          Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.

243-257.          Increase Rows (last row will have 20 (15) sts)

258-261.          Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.

262.                 Without turning, sc in each st around the outside of bow tie. Join with a sl st to first st of previous row. Fasten off and weave in ends.

It is a good idea to starch the ends of the bow tie to get it to stand up right when you tie it. If you do not starch it, it has a softer, floppy sort of look and the ends will curl over on themselves a bit. 

This pattern works up fairly quickly considering the small size of thread. I think it took me about 2.5 hours and that was with me typing out the pattern as I went.

Have fun with this one! This pattern can easily be adapted to use more than one color. (stripes, outside border a different color, etc.) I would love to hear how the pattern works for you and as always feel free to comment with any questions you have. 

Stormi

Crochet Doctor Who Inspired "Dalek" Pattern

Lately I've been in a bit of a crochet rut. So for the past few days I've been spending my time surfing the web and checking out tons of free patterns trying to find one that really inspired me. 

I've been getting more into Amigurumi style crochet projects. I haven't really done very many of these types of patterns. My Crochet Amigurumi Voodoo Doll  was the first major Amigurumi pattern that I worked on. I wanted something to inspire me like the Voodoo doll idea had but I hadn't been able to find anything until a friend showed me one that she was getting ready to start.

The pattern she showed me was for a crochet Dalek. (click link for original pattern. Link also includes a chance to help out a needy family via the poster of the original pattern.) 

I LOVED IT!  It looks great but wasn't exactly what I wanted. The original pattern is a bit smaller than I wanted and calls for joins at the end of each row. I wanted something large and worked in continuous rounds so there is no seam line.

I decided to work the pattern using two strands of yarn and a J hook instead of the single strand and F that the pattern calls for. While the pattern was done well for the most part, it is a bit difficult to understand at times, there was a whole row I had to leave out to make it look right and another I had to change to make it look right as well. I also didn't like that the "arms" and "eye" were flat instead of round. I got about halfway through the pattern before I decided to pull it out and write up my own pattern inspired by the original one my friend showed me. 

I designed a pattern to better fit using two strands and a larger hook size. I also added another color and changed a few of the rows to enhance the overall look of the Dalek. Then I added instructions for making the "eye" and "arms" round instead of flat and added instructions for making the "lights" for the top of the Dalek.

This was a super fun project to work on and it was made even better by the reaction of my daughter when she saw it. ("I LOVE DALEKS!")
She is currently running around my house with it yelling "EX-TER-ME-NATE!

So, here is is. Enjoy!

Crochet Dalek Pattern

Hook Size: US J / 6.00MM

2 Strands of Worsted Weight Yarn in color A (I used Red Heart acrylic yarn for this project but I think it would work well in cotton as well.) For A I used a caramel color.

2 Strands of Worsted Weight Yarn in color B. For B I used a Navy color.

2 Strands of Worsted Weight Yarn in color C. For C I used a scrap of a bright blue color.

Poly Fill

Yarn Needles

Stitch Markers

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds using a stitch marker to keep track of where the row ends. Make sure you place the stitch marker in the last stitch of the row and make sure you move it up with each row so you can keep track of where you last stitch is.

Body:

1.) Start with color A. Using "Magic Circle" technique start with 12 sc into Magic Circle.

2.) sc in next st, 2 sc in next st around (18 sts)

3.) sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st around (24 sts)

4.) sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st around (30 sts)

5.) sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st around (36 sts)

6-12.) sc in each st around.

13.) Change to color B. Sl st into back loop only of first st of row. (st you sl st into at the end of previous row.) hdc into back loop only of  same st and next 4 st, ch 1, sk 1 st, *hdc in back loop only of next 5 st, ch 1, sk 1 st* around.

14.) Change to color A. Sl st into first st of previous row. (st you joined to) *sc in  next 5 st, 2dc in both loops skipped st of previous row* around.  Join with a sl st to first st of row, fasten off. (42 sts)

15.) Change to color B. Sl st into back loop only of  first st of previous row. (st you joined to) *hdc into next 6 st, ch 1, sk 1 st* around. Join with a sl st to first st of row, fasten off.

16.) Change to color A. Sl st into first st of previous row. (st you joined to) *sc in next 6 st, 2 dc in both loops of previous row* around. Join with a sl st to first st of row. Fasten off. (48 sts.)

17.) Change to color B. Sl st into back loop only of first st of previous row. (st you joined to). *hdc in next 7 st, ch 1, sk 1 st* around. Join with a sl st to the first st of the row.

18.) Change to color A. Sl st into first st of previous row. (st you joined to) *sc in next 7 st, 2dc in both loops of skipped st of previous row* around. DO NOT JOIN place Stitch Marker in last st of row. (54 sts)

19.) *Sc in back loop only of next 8 st., sc in next st* around

20-23.) *fpsc (front post single crochet) in next to st, bpsc (back post single crochet) in the next to st.* around.

24-26.) sc in each st around.

27.) *sc in next 8 st, 2 sc in next* around. (60 sts) sl st into next st and fasten off.

28.) Change to color B. Sl st into first st of previous row. (st you sl stitched into). *Pc in next st, ch 3, sk 3 sts* around. Join with a sl st and fasten off.

29.) Change to color A. Sl st into first st of row. (st you joined to.) *Sc in top of Pc, Dc in next 3 st of previous row* around. Join with a sl st.

30-31.) Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with a sl st and fasten off after row 32.

32.) Repeat row 29

33.) Repeat row 30

34-35.) Repeat row 31-32

36.) Repeat row 29

37.) Change to color A. Sl st into first st of row. (st you sl stitched into) * sc in top of Pc, dc in next st of previous row, 2 dc in next st of previous row, dc in next st of previous row.* around. Join with a sl st. (75 sts)

38-39.) Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with a sl st and fasten off.

40.) Change to color B. Sl into first st of row. (st you sl stitched into) *Pc in next st, ch 4, sk 4 sts* around. Join with a sl st and fasten off.

41.) Change to color A. Sl st into first st of row. (st you sl stitched into) * sc in top of Pc, dc in next 4 sts of previous row.* around. join with a sl st.

42-43.) Ch 1, sc in each st around, Join with a sl st AFTER ROW 44 DO NOT JOIN! Place stitch marker in last st of row.

44.) *2 sc in next st, sc in next 14* st around. ( 80sts)

45.) *2 sc in next st, sc in next 15* around (85 sts)

46.) sc in each st around, sl st into next st and fasten off leaving about a yard of yarn to sew on the base.


Base:  ( Use color A)

1.) Using magic ring technique, start with 6 sc in magic ring. Place stitch marker in last sc of row.

2.) 2 sc in each sc around. (12 sts.) Make sure you are moving the stitch marker with each new row.

3.) *2 sc in next st, sc in next st* around (18 sts)

4.) *2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts* around (24 sts)

5.) *2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts* around (30 sts)

6.) *2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts* around (36 sts)

7.) *2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts* around (42 sts)

8.) *2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts * around (48 sts)

9.) *2 sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts*  around (54 sts)

10.) *2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts* around (60 sts)

11.) *2 sc in next st, sc in next 9 sts* around (66 sts)

12.) *2 sc in next st, sc in next 10 sts* around (72 sts)

13.) *2 sc in next st, sc in next 11 sts* around (78 sts)

14.) *2 sc in next st, sc in next 12 sts* around (84 sts) sl st in next st and fasten off.

Eye: (When assembeling, eye should be attatched at row 10 of body.)

1.) Using color C and the magic ring technique start with 6 sc in magic ring DO NOT JOIN place stitch marker in last st of row and move it with each following row.

2.) 2sc in each st around (12sts) sl st into next st and fasten off

3.) Using color B sl st into first st of previous row (st you ls st into) *2sc in next st, sc in next st* around (18 sts)

4.) *sc in back loop only of the next st* around

5.) sc in each st around

6.) *sc 2tog, sc in next st* around (12 sts)

7.) *sc 2 tog* around (6 sts)

8-12.) sc in each st around. at the end of row 12 sl st into next st and fasten off leaving enough yarn attached to sew on eye.

"Gun" Arm: (Arms are attached to the body just below the ribbed section and just above the section with the "balls")

1.) Ch 2, 3 sc in 2nd st from hook. Place stitch marker

2.) 2 Sc in each st around (6sts)

3-12.) sc in each st around. Sl st into next st and fasten off leaving enough yarn attached to sew on arm.

"Plunger" Arm: (Arms are attached to the body just below the ribbed section and just above the section with the "balls")

Follow instructions for rows 1-7 of the "Gun" Arm, sl st into next st and fasten off leaving enough yarn to sew on arm.

1.) Sl St into row two and work 6 sl stitches around the end of arm. Place stitch marker in last st

2.) 2 sc in each st around (12 sts)

3.) *2sc in next st, sc in next st* around (18 sts)

4-10.) *2sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts* around (24 sts) Sl st into next st and fasten off. Weave in loose ends and attach to body.

11.) Using sl st, attach to to row 2 of "arm" you just made and work 6 slip stitches around the end of the arm. place st marker.

12.) *2 sc in each st* around. (12 sts)

13.) *2 sc in next st, sc in next st* around (18 sts)

14.) * 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts* around (24 sts) sl st into next st, fasten off and weave in loose end.


"Lights": Make 2 (As I originally forgot about them, the "lights" are not shown in the pics. Lights are attached at the top of the Dalek's "head" with one being to each side of the "eye" and a little farther back. [almost like horns or antlers.])

1.) Using color B (or white if you like) and magic circle technique, Start with 6 sc in magic circle. Place stitch marker.

2.) *2 sc in each st* around (12 sts)

3.) *sc in back loop only of next st* around

4-7.) sc in each st around. Sl st into next st, fasten off  leaving enough yarn to attach to body.

Now all you have to do is stuff (stuff firmly!)  all the parts and assemble! I cut a cardboard circle the same size as the base and sewed in after I stuffed the body to give it a flat bottom and help the whole thing stand better.

Finished project stands approx. 17 inches tall and is approx. 10 inches wide at the base.

Have fun with this one and I would love to hear what you think about the pattern.

Stormi

Edit: I added the pattern for the "lights" (not pictured) and added the missing part of the "plunger" arm pattern.


Edit 2: There was a mistake in the main body pattern. Fixed now!

Crochet Amigurumi VooDoo Doll

Finished doll is aprox. 2' tall.

Have fun with this one and really experiment with how you put it together and the colors and buttons you use. I can't find a picture of it right now, but I made one that was dark blue with neon blue stitches and eyes. They eyes were two different sizes and it turned out awesomely cute!

IMPORTANT!!!: This entire project is worked in the round. DO NOT join at the end of rounds. Use a stitch marker! Place it in the last stitch of the first round and move it to the last stitch of each round as you go. 

Materials:

Yarn needle

2 buttons (they can be the same size and color or different.)

Main body color yarn (approx half a skein)

"Stitch" color (whatever odd ends you have will work.)

I used a G hook for the doll pictured. I've also used one size larger and one size smaller. Each worked just 

as well but keep in mind when changing hook sizes that larger hooks result in larger stitches and you will be

able to see the fill a little more especially with dark colored yarn.

Legs: 

1. 10 Sc in Magic ring 

2. 2 sc in each st around. 

3. 1 sc in next, 2 sc in next around 

4. 1 sc in next 2, 2 sc in next around 

5. sc in back loop only around 

6-8. sc in each st around 

9. 1 sc in next 2, sc 2tog around. 

10. 1 sc in next, sc 2tog around. 

11-17. 1 sc in each st around. Stuff foot. 

18. 1 sc in next, sc 2tog around 

19-28. 1 sc in each st around. Fasten off and stuff leg. 

 
Arms: 

1. 10 sc in magic ring 

2. 2 sc in each st around. 

3. 1 sc in next, 2 sc in next around 

4. Sc in back loop only around.  

6-8. Sc in each st around 

9-10. 1 sc in next, sc 2tog around. 

11-17. sc in each st around. Stuff arm 

17. 1 sc in next, sc 2tog around.  

18-25  1 sc in each st around. Fasten off and stuff arm. 
 

(Quik note about sewing on the "stitches" I always sew them on after I have the doll together so that they

do not pull as much when you stuff it but you may find it easier to do them before stuffing.)

Head (head was written up from memory so please let me know if I need to tweak anything.)

1. 10 Sc in Magic ring 

2. 2 sc in each st around. 

3. 1 sc in next, 2 sc in next around 

4. 1 sc in next 2, 2 sc in next around 

5. 1 sc in next 3, 2 sc in next around

6. 1 sc in next 4, 2 sc in next around

7. 1 sc in next 5, 2 sc in next around

8. 1 sc in next 6, 2 sc in next around

9-11. sc around

12-15 decrease rows 

stuff first half of head and sew on eyes.

16-17 decrease rows

18-20 sc around

stuff second half of head. (head will round out more the more you stuff it.

Body:

Rnd 1 – "Magic Loop" 7 sc in magic loop

Rnd 2 – 2 sc in each sc to marker, 2 sc in marked st, place marker in last sc made
(14 sc)

Rnd 3 – [sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] repeat around to sc before marker, sc, 2 sc in
marked sc (21 sc)

Rnd 4 – [sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc] around to 2 sc before marker, sc in next 2 sc, 2
sc in marked sc (28 sc)

Rnd 5 – [sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc] around to 3 sc before marker, sc in next 3, 2 sc
in marked sc (34 sc)

Rnd 6 – [sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc] around to 4 sc before marker, sc in next 4, 2 sc
in marked sc (41 sc)

Rnds 7 - 12 – sc evenly around, moving up marker to last sc of each round (41 sc)

Rnd 13 – [sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc] around to 5 sc before marker, sc in next 5, 2
sc in marked sc (48 sc)

Rnd 14 - 26 – sc evenly around, moving marker to last sc of each round (48 sc)

Rnd 27 – [sc in next 5 sc, dec. over next 2 sc] around to 6 sc before marker, sc in next
5, dec. over next sc and marked sc, (41 sts)

Rnd 28 – [sc in next 4 sc, dec. over next 2 sts] around to 5 sc before marker, sc in next
4, dec. over next sc and marked st (34 sts)

Rnd 29 – sc evenly around, moving up marker to last sc of each round (34 sc)

Rnd 30 – [sc in next 3 sc, dec. over next 2 sts] around to 4 sc before marker. Dec. in
next sc and marked st (28 sts)

Stuff firmly

Rnd 31 – [sc in next 2 sc, dec. over next 2 sts] around to 3 sc before marker, dec. over
next sc and marked st (21)

Rnd 31 – [sc in next sc, dec. over next 2 sts] around to 2 sc before marker, dec. over
next sc and marked st (14 sts)

Rnd 32 – dec. over next 2 st around, cut leaving long tail.

Weave tail through last row and pull tight and secure tightly to close end.

All that is left now is to sew the doll together. Use a yarn needle and the same color yarn as your main doll

body. The doll pictured is sewn together pretty evenly but it is also fun to experiment with sewing one of the arms lower than the other. You can also play around with adjusting the length of arms and legs if you want a more "Frankenstein" kind of look to yours.

EDIT: I am currently working on a giant, semi-life size version of this pattern. it will be posted when I am

done making the first one and writing up a pattern for it. Make sure you check back soon if you would like

see the giant pattern.