Supplies:
Most important in crochet is the crochet hook. You will find many different brands on the market as well as different materials ranging from metal to wood to plastic as well as a few others. The main difference between brands (aside from the material they are made of) is slight differences in the shape of the hook. These differences are not really enough to affect how you use the hook. Most hooks are relatively the same shape and you will rarely notice a difference.
Most hooks with have this same general shape. As you can see in the photo I have mostly metal hooks with a few plastic ones. There is even one I think might be some kind of bone from the texture of it. The hook to the far right (the one I think may be bone) even has a decorative handle. While this adds to the style of the hook, it really does nothing for the overall function of the crochet hook. Don't waist extra money on more expensive/decorative hooks when the cheep (though still good quality) hooks do just as good a job. The only time it makes sense to spend a little extra money on crochet hooks would be for people who have arthritis. Sometimes, the slim hooks can be difficult for those with arthritis. I have seen something rather cool for crocheters with this problem.
Most sizes of crochet hooks can fit in this and the wide handle makes it more comfortable for people with problems such as arthritis.
The main thing you need to know about crochet hooks before you start is SIZE MATTERS! Generally, the larger the hook, the larger the stitches you will make. Most of the time, your pattern will tell you what size hook to use, but if you are unsure, check the label on the yarn you are using and it will usually tell you the recommended hook size for that yarn. It also never hurts to play around with different hook sizes. (depending on what you are crocheting)
In this picture, you can see the size of the hook. This hook has both the USA and Metric sizes for this hook. When reading a pattern, you will usually see one of three size styles: USA, English, or Metric. Not all hooks have more than one size style on it so it is a good idea to keep a chart with the corresponding sizes.
USA = English = Metric
--
|
000
|
10.0mm
|
N
|
00
|
9.00mm
|
--
|
0
|
8.00mm
|
K-10 1/2
|
2
|
7.00mm
|
10 1/4
|
3
|
6.50mm
|
J-10
|
4
|
6.00mm
|
I-9
|
5
|
5.50mm
|
H-8
|
6
|
5.00mm
|
7
|
7
|
4.50mm
|
G-6
|
8
|
4.00mm
|
F-5
|
9
|
3.75mm
|
E-4
|
9
|
3.50mm
|
D-3
|
10
|
3.25mm
|
C-2
|
12
|
2.75mm
|
B-1
|
13
|
2.25mm
|
B-1
|
14
|
2.00mm
|
5 steel
|
-
|
1.75mm
|
7 steel
|
-
|
1.50mm
|
8 steel
|
-
|
1.25mm
|
10 steel
|
-
|
1.00mm
|
Other supplies include: A good pair of scissors...
While any good pair of scissors will work just fine, I prefer to use the style on the left. They are small so they don't take up too much space and since they have small points, they get into small spaces easier.
You will also want a ruler/measuring tape as many patterns go more by measurements than rows.
Stitch markers: some patterns call for stitch markers. Personally, I use a small bit of a contrasting color of yarn or a safety pin. They work just as good and don't cost a ton of money. DO NOT USE STITCH MARKERS INTENDED FOR KNITTING!!! These are a different kind and you will NOT be able to remove them from your crochet without taking it out or cutting your stitch markers.
A small plastic needle (easily found next to the crochet hooks) for hiding ends or stitching parts together.
For the most part (unless your pattern says different) these are all the supplies you need. There are only two other things I would suggest, though they are unnecessary. 1- A bag or basket to store your crochet project in while you are not working on it. There is nothing more frustrating than being almost finished with a project and having to start over because the kids/dog/cat got a hold of your project. 2-A yarn bowl if you like to work off of balls like I do. You can order one online that is beautiful, has holes for your hooks, and a slot for your yarn. Many bowls straight from you kitchen cabinets work just as well. The main point of the yarn bowl is to keep your yarn ball from rolling all over the place while you work.
(This is a yarn bowl my sister made for me not to long ago.)
How to Read a Pattern:
For the most part (especially with beginner patterns) patterns are fairly easy to read once you know the lingo. The first time you look at a crochet pattern, you might think it is written in some alien language. If you work out of a beginners pattern book, there is likely to be a list of abbreviations at the start/end of the book to help you sort out all that Greek. If not, here is a general guide to crochet abreviations:
beg = beginning
bpdc = backpost double crochet CC = Contrasting Color ch = chain cl = cluster dc = double crochet dec = decrease dtr = double treble crochet fpdc = front post double crochet hdc = half double crochet inc = increase lp(s) = loop(s) MC = Main Color p = picot rep = repeat rnd = round RS = Right Side facing you sk = skip st = stitch ss or sl st = slip stitch sc = single crochet sp = space tog = together tr = treble tr tr = triple treble woh = wool over hook WS = Wrong Side facing you yoh = yarn over hook |
There may be one or two not on this list, but for the most part they are there. Any others are usually specific to the pattern and the pattern will include a description.
Other than this short hand, patterns are usually straight-forward and easy to follow. I do still come across one every now and then that takes me a while to sort out, but with a little effort it's usually not too bad. The biggest problem (especially for a beginner) is where the pattern comes from. American and English patterns often look exactly the same in terms of abbreviations but what the English refer to as a dc (double crochet) in America we refer to as a sc. (single crochet) This small difference can make a HUGE difference in the outcome of your project so it's important to know the difference.
I will talk more about pattern reading in my next post and begin to cover what these stitches actually are and how to do them.
Stormi
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