Monday, September 23, 2013

Crocodile Stitch Purse

This is the original purse I made this pattern for. It worked up pretty fast after I figured out how the stitch was done. I took it slow and worked on it over two nights, but it could have easily been done in one night.
I tried to write this pattern so that it is easy to customize and make the way you really want it. Have fun making this pattern in different sizes and color combinations!

This was a pattern I made up as I went so please let me know if you have any trouble with it.

Notes:
This pattern is mostly “crocodile stitch.” Once you figure it out, it is really easy. However, beginners to crochet may have difficulty figuring out the stitch from only a written pattern. If you find that you are having trouble, check out this blog ( http://yarn-muse.blogspot.com/2011/01/crocodile-stitch.html ) for a few fantastic videos on exactly how this “stitch” is done. The only difference between what you see in the videos and what you will do in this pattern is that the videos show you how to work the stitch in flat rows while in this pattern you will be working in a circle.

As you progress through each row of this pattern, the “scales” should be off-set from each other. The point of the “scale” in one row should rest between two “scales” of the previous row. If this is not the case, make sure when you start row 4 (and every repeat of row 4) that your first 2 DC (it will read “ch 3, dc in same sp) is worked into the space BETWEEN two “scales” and NOT in the center of a “scale”

Materials:
Worsted weight yarn (The exact amount of yarn needed for this pattern varies based on personal preference for bag and strap sizes.)
Size H/8-5.00MM Crochet hook
Yarn needle
Button if you would like a closure.
4 Stitch markers

Pattern:

1.) Ch 34, (If you would like a larger or smaller bag, simply make the base chain the length you would like for the width of your purse. The only rule is that it MUST be a number divisible by three and THEN add ONE stitch to that number. This extra stitch makes up for the height of the sc you will be working around the chain.) sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch. Turn and sc in each ch sp down the other side of the ch, join with a sl st. (66 sc around [If you changed the number of base chains, subtract the one stitch you added and multiply by 2 to get the number of stitches you should have around to start with])

2.) Ch 3(counts as your first dc), Dc in st you joined to. *ch 2, sk 2 sts, 2dc in next st* around. Join with a sl st to 3rd ch of ch3.

3.) Ch 1, (working AROUND the posts of dc from previous row) [5 dc around first dc, ch 1, work 5 dc around next dc]ßThis makes one “scale”. *skip next 2 dc and work 5 dc around next dc, ch 1, 5 dc around next dc* around, join with a sl st to first dc of the first “scale” in the row.

If making this purse with stripes, fasten off and switch colors.

4.) Working through both layers,(If joining a new color: join with a sl st to the space between “scales” and through the 2 skipped dc from previous row.) From this point on, when making the pairs of dc, make sure you are working through both layers of the previous row. Both the space between the scales and the space between the 2 skipped DC from the previous row. Ch 3, dc in same sp, *ch 2, 2 dc in space at center of “scale”, ch 2, 2 dc in space between “scales”* around. Join with a sl st.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until purse is the desired height.

Fasten off.

The rest of the purse will be worked with two strands of yarn at the same time. If you have been working the pattern in stripes, I would suggest using one strand of both colors. If you used more than two colors, either pick the two colors you think will look best or pick a single color.

5.) Using two strands of yarn, and making sure you are going through both layers of the previous row, join to any stitch with a sl st. Ch 1 and SC around putting 2 SC around each DC, 1 SC between each “scale”, and 1 SC in the center of each “scale.” Join with a sl st to the first sc in the row.

6.) Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with a sl st and fasten offß ONLY IF YOU ARE GOING TO ADD A LINING. If not, simply join, and move onto row 7.

At this point, you want to decide if you are going to put a lining in your purse. I highly recommend doing this. Due to the way this pattern is worked, it is easy for small things (pens, chapstick, change, lipstick, etc.) to slip through the sides.

To make a lining: Cut two pieces of fabric roughly the same size of your purse. With right sides together, sew around three edges, leaving one side open. LEAVE RIGHT SIDES TOGHETER! Fold the open edge down to create a “hem.” Slip lining into purse and line up the edge of the “hem” with the edge of the purse. Using a sewing machine or by hand, sew the lining to the purse. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT SEW OVER THE TOPS OF THE STITCHES. You will need to be able to crochet through them to finish the purse.

7.) (If you added a lining, join to any st close to one end with a sl st) Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with a sl st to first sc or row. If you are adding a button closure this is the row to make the button hole. To do this, in the center of one side, chain 1-3 and skip 1-3 sts depending on the size of your button. (If you use a small button, you may only need to ch 1, sk 1. However, if you use a large button, you may have to ch 3, sk 3.)

8.) Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with a sl st to first sc of row. If you added a button hole, make sure you sc in the sk st space. (If you chained 1 you will have 1 sc in the space, if you chained two, you will have 2 sc in the space, and so on.)

Now you are going to make the straps. There are a few things you need to decide at this point. 1.) How long do you want the straps? 2.) How close to the center of the bag do you want them to attach? Once you decide where you want the straps attached, place stitch markers at and even distance on both sides of the bag. (You should have 4 stitch markers. Two on each side of the bag.)

9.) Ch 1, sc to the first stitch marker. Ch 20 + (depending on how long you want your straps to be), sc at next stitch marker and in each st to next marker, ch the same amount you chained for the last strap, sc at marker and in each remaining st. Join with a sl st to first sc of row.

10.) Ch1, sc in each st and ch around, join with a sl st. Fasten off and weave in ends.


For Button: Using the button hole you made as a guide, attach button to the INSIDE of the opposite side of bag.