Saturday, December 3, 2016

Beginner Tunisian Crochet How To: Basic/Simple stitch, Knit stitch, and Double stitch

Tunisian Crochet can be a fun change from normal versions of crochet. It can also help you achieve new textures. 

There are different versions of hooks used for Tunisian crochet. Some look like crochet hoods with a cord attached to the end. The ones I usually use are more like a crochet hook/knitting needle hybrid. They have a hook at one end and a metal/rubber/plastic stopper at the other end. You can find them in different lengths and will want to use longer sizes for larger projects such as large blankets. A standard crochet hook can be used for smaller projects or for the purpose of learning. The hook I use in this post is a size 10 of the Susan Bates brand. This is equal to a regular J size crochet hook.

Basic/Simple Tunisian Stitch

Start with a basic slip knot on your hook.

Your foundation chain needs to be equal to the number stitches across you need for your project (unless working working the double crochet style). For this post, I started with a foundation chain of 10.

Starting in the second chain from the hook and working in each chain across, insert the hook into the chain, yarn over, and pull through the chain. When you have pulled a loop through each of the chains, you will have 10 (equal to your foundation ch) loops on your hook.

When doing Tunisian crochet, you do not turn your work. Instead, you simply work back and forth. Once you have all your loops on the hook, you chain 1 (yarn over and pull through the first loop on the hook.)

Now you will work the loops off just like you are working single crochets. *Yarn over, pull through 2 loops* Repeat from *to* back across your project until you only have 1 loop remaining on your hook.

This is what it will look like when you have worked all but 1 loop off of your hook.

Notice the vertical posts across the front of the first row. This is what you will insert your hook behind the vertical loop and back out the front of the project to pull up the loops for your next row. 

Treat the loop that is already on your hook as the first loop for the second row. Insert the hook behind the posts from right to left, yarn over, pull the loop back behind the post from left to right. In the picture above, I have pulled up one loop and now have two on the hook.

Repeat this across until you have all 10 loops on the hook. 

Work the rest of the row as before. Chain 1, *yarn over, pull through 2 loops* repeat from *to* across until you only have 1 loop left on your hook.

Repeat until you have reached the desired length. 

This is what the front side of the Basic/Simple stitch looks like. This is generally the most common type of Tunisian style crochet stitch I come across. 

This is what the back side looks like. 

To finish off when a nice neat end, you will insert the hook behind the posts in the same way you did when you were pulling up loops before, yarn over, pull the loop behind the post AND through the loop already on your hook so you still only have one loop. You are basically working slip stitches across the top of the project in the same style you were crocheting. You can also use this end to finish the next two types of stitches as well, you just have to make sure you go all the way through the back of the project to maintain the stitch style when working in the knit stitch. 

Tunisian Knit Stitch

To work the Tunisian Knit stitch, you start the same way you would for the basic stitch. After the first row, instead of inserting the hook behind the vertical post and back out the front of the project like you do for the basic stitch, you insert it behind the post and then straight through the back of the project. 

Insert the hook behind the vertical post and through the back of the project, yarn over, pull back through the project to add a loop to your hook. Repeat across until you have 10 loops on your hook.
The loops are worked off in the same way they are worked off in the basic stitch. Ch 1, *yarn over, pull through 2 loops* repeat from *to* until you only have 1 loop on your hook. 
Repeat until you have reached the desired length. 

This is what the front side of the Knit Stitch looks like. You will notice the chain like V's down the front that mimic the pattern knit stitches in knitting make. 

This is what the back of the knit stitch looks like. 

From what I have noticed, knit stitch is usually slightly thicker feeling that the basic stitch and tends to work up slightly tighter for me. 

Both Basic and Knit stitches tend to curl over on itself and it can be difficult to get the project to lay flat. 

Double Crochet Tunisian Stitch

When working the double crochet style Tunisian crochet, you need to add a stitch to your foundation chain. Since I was working with 10 stitches in this post, I needed to start with a foundation chain of 11. You start by yarning over and inserting the hook into the 3rd chain from the hook to pull up a loop just like you would when working a double crochet in standard crochet.

Yarn over and pull a loop through the first two loops on the hook. You have now worked 1/2 of a double crochet and should have two loops on your hook just like in the picture above. 

Repeat this across until you have 1/2 of a double crochet in each chain across and 10 loops on your hook. 

Work the loops off the hook in the same way you would for the basic stitch. Chain 1, *yarn over, pull through 2 loops* repeat across until you only have 1 loop left on your hook.

When working the double crochet Tunisian stitch, you have to chain 1 between rows to bring you up to the proper height for the row. If you do not do this, your project will be shorter on one end. 

For this post, I am working behind the vertical posts and out the front of the project just like you do for the basic stitch.

However, you can work straight through the back like the knit stitch.

Either way you choose to work through the posts, work the 1/2 double crochet stitches across and then take the loops off in the same manner as before. Repeat until you have reached the desired length for your project. 

This is what the front side of the double crochet Tunisian stitch looks like. 

This is the double crochet Tunisian style stitch from the back.

While both the Basic and Knit stitches curl back on themselves quite a bit, the double crochet stitch tends to lay much flatter. Unless you work with super tight stitches, it usually lays flat.

As always, if you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment and ask or join the Facebook group.

Have fun with this unique crochet style!

Stormi

What would you like to see from me and What I have planned for the near future...

Over the next month or so, I hope to have several more patterns posted. As of right now, I am looking at finishing and posting patterns for a "Giant" double sided checker board with checkers and a carrying bag, an adjustable version of my crochet bow-tie pattern, and a "Niffler" inspired by Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them.

While I've been thinking about what new patterns I want to develop and post, I've come to the realization that I have been neglecting the "How To" side of this blog. So I have a few questions for all of you. 

What do you want to see?
What are you having difficulties with?
What have you come across that you just don't understand?

One of the things I have always loved about crochet is the ability to constantly learn new things and share the knowledge with others. However, I've been doing this for so long it is difficult to gauge what others (especially beginners) might be having difficulty with. 

If you have any questions or suggestions for future "Help" or "How To" posts, please comment below or join the Facebook Group and post there to let me know. 

I look forward to hearing your suggestions. 

Stormi

Monday, August 29, 2016

Crochet, Amigurumi Baby Mew Pattern





Baby Mew
Size 7 (or G/6) Crochet hook
Stitch marker
Yarn Needle
Pink Yarn
Small amount of blue yarn
 Poly-Fil

Notes:
This pattern is worked in rounds. This means you use a stitch marker to mark the last stitch in each row and instead of joining with a slip stitch at the end of each row, you simply continue in one continuous spiral. 
I like to fasten off with a slip stitch into the next stitch, chain 1, cut the thread and pull it through the loop. 

Head:
Magic Ring with 6 sc
Increase around
*Sc, increase* around
*2sc, increase* around
*3sc, increase* around
Sc around for 3 rows
*3sc, decrease*around
*2sc, decrease* around
Stuff
*sc, decrease* around
Decrease around
Fasten off and sew closed

Body:
Magic Ring with 6 sc
Increase around
*sc, increase* around
Sc around for 8 rows
*sc, decrease* around
Fasten off leaving end open and keeping a tail long enough to sew to head.

Ears x2:
Magic Ring with 6sc
*sc, increase* around
*2sc, increase* around
*3sc, increase* around
Fasten off leaving enough tail to sew to head.

Nose:
Magic Ring with 6sc
Increase around
*sc, increase* around
Fasten off leaving enough tail to sew to head

Feet x4:
Magic Ring with 6sc
*sc, increase* around
Sc around for 3 rows.
Fasten off leaving enough tail to sew to body

Tail:
Magic Ring with 6sc
Increase around
Sc around for 4 rows
Stuff
Dec around
Sc around for 8 rows
Fasten off leaving enough tail to sew to body.


Sew together and use blue yarn to embroider eyes. 

Thursday, January 7, 2016

Crochet Tail (Mermaid / Dinosaur / Etc) Blanket Pattern : Instructions for both adult and child sizes.



A while back, my sister came to me with a blanket project that she wanted me to make for her. Well, one thing happened and then another and the blanket just never got made. Fast forward about a year and she comes to me with it again as a Christmas project.

If you've come across any of my previous posts, you will know I NEVER purchase patterns when I can make one of my own or find a free one that is similar enough to what I need. So, when my sister brought up the mermaid tails for a second time, I began by searching the internet. 

There are TONS of patterns with TONS of different styles out there for free. There were things I liked about each and every pattern, however, none of them 100% fit what I was looking for. Instead, I printed off one that had a good general pattern and went from there. 

The pattern I started with was Adult Sized Mermaid Lapghan by Mad Hooker Crochet.

Over all, this is a great pattern and seasoned crocheters will have no problem following it. As for beginners, I think it may be a little difficult to follow. This is mainly due to the style in which the pattern is written out and edits were made to the post. I strongly urge you to check out their blog as there are several other patterns and fantastic project ideas.

This project is one that can be customized in an infinite number of ways. I have made three so far One was solid pink with solid green fins, one was solid pink with dark and light striped fins, and the other alternated colors with every row and has dinosaur spikes down the front of it. Change it up, experiment with color combos and different types of tails. The only thing I would discourage is attempting to make three in the two week span before Christmas. Speaking from experience, this can have some unfortunate consequences for your hooking arm.


The original pattern called for an H hook and I decided to use a K instead. When using the larger hook, the pattern works up much faster and the "scale" shapes become more prominent when only using one color instead of doing stripes. The larger hook size also meant that I had to adjust the numbers of stitches and rows for the pattern. This was something I was going to have to do from the start to make this pattern fit a child, but the numbers for the adult size would have changed as well.

What follows is the pattern/sizing instructions and pictures of my alterations to their original pattern.

Just as a fun bit of info and a glimpse into how I work, this is what often happens when I create or modify patterns. Unless I am planning on making a blog post about it, this is also what I usually have to work with if I ever decide to make more from the same pattern.


 

Most of this pattern is worked in a repeating pattern of shell clusters. This gives a nice "scale" look to the entire tail.



Tools and Materials:

K/6.50MM Crochet hook (Keep in mind, the way this pattern is written, you can change the size of the hook without any issue. Larger hook sizes will mean less stitches and a more prominate "scale" pattern when working with only one color)

Worsted Weight Yarn (This is also not set in stone with this pattern. You could easily use a different weight pattern and add/subtract stitches as you need.)

*Note on the amount of yarn: Because this pattern is written to fit your needs, I cannot really give an accurate estimate of how much you will need as this will depend on the size of tail you are making. I will say the three I have made so far have been child-sized and fit the average size 4-8 year old. With these three, I think I used about 1 1/2 skeins EACH total.

Yarn Needle For hiding ends and attaching the fins/scales/etc.

Abbreviations:
Ch: Chain
St: Stitch
Sl: Slip
Sk: Skip
Dc: Double Crochet
Sc: Single Crochet
sc2tog: Single Crochet 2 Together
Hdc: Half Double Crochet

Pattern: What follows will be the pattern for the child size tails I have made so far with suggestions for alterations in size and notes in Bold.

Start with a foundation chain of 92.

*IMPORTANT* When deciding how long your foundation chain needs to be, it should be at least long enough to easily tuck under both thighs when draped across the top of the legs. The only requirement is the number of chains MUST be a multiple of 6 (with 2 added to work as your first Dc) to accommodate the pattern in the following rows. 

Dc in the third ch from hook and in each ch across.

1: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in last st of previous row, [Sk 2, dc 5 in next st, Sk 2 Sc in next st] repeat from [ to ] across ending with a Sc in the first st of the previous row.

2: Ch 2 and turn. 2 Dc in last st of previous row  (this counts as 3 Dc or 1/2 a shell st), [Sc in the center (3rd) dc of next shell, 5 Dc in next Sc.] repeat from [ to ] across ending with 3 Dc in the first Sc from the previous row. 

Repeat rows 1 and 2 for 30 rows (This number could be off by one. You want to make sure the last row you do is pattern row 2)

*For larger sizes or taller kids (or smaller if that is what you need) you will need to add (or remove) repeated rows here. You want to reach a length that fits from the hips to just below the knees when seated.

Join both ends (into a circle) with a Sl St into the first Dc of the row.

3: Ch 1, Sc into the St you joined into, 5 Dc into next Sc, [Sc in the center (3rd) dc of next shell, 5 Dc in next Sc.] repeat from [ to ] around and join with a Sl St into the first Sc of the round.

4: Ch 3, 4 Dc into the St you joined into, Sc in the center (3rd) Dc of next shell, [5 Dc in next Sc, Sc in the center (3rd) Dc of next shell] repeat from [ to ] around and join with a Sl St to the fist DC of the round.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 for 15 rows.

*For larger sizes or taller kids (or smaller) you will need to add (or remove) repeated rows here. You want to reach total length that fits from the hips to mid calf (or just below) when seated.

Now you will start to decrease and bring the tail to a point. To do this, you will work a series of different decrease rows. These decrease rows should work the same for any size of tail you are making. Simply follow the pattern as it is written from here on out.

Repeat rows 3 - 4 twice and SUBSTITUTE every other shell in the row with a 1/2 shell (3 Dc instead of 5). (i.e. full shell, Sc, half shell, Sc Full shell...)

Repeat row 3 once and SUBSTITUTE every shell for a half shell.

The next rows, you will repeat until the tail is closed on the end.

5: Ch 3, 2 Dc in the same st as join, Sk 1, sc2tog, Sk 1, [ 3 Dc in next St, Sk 1, sc2tog] repeat around and join with a Sl St into the first Dc of the round.

6: Ch 1, sc2tog, Sk 1, 3 Dc in next St, Sk 1, [ sc2tog, Sk 1, 3 Dc in next st] repeat around and join with a Sl St into the first sc2tog of the round.

When your tail is mostly closed at the end, fasten off, turn inside out,  weave through the stitches of your last row, pull tight to close, tie off and weave in the end.

Fins: Make 2
1: Ch 25, Sc in the 2nd Ch from the hook and next 4 (for a total of 5 Sc) Hdc in next 4, Dc in the next 6, Hdc in the next 4, Sc in the next 5, Ch 2 and turn to work down the opposite side of the chain. Sc in next 5, Hdc in next 4, Dc in next 6, Hdc in next 4, Sc in next 5.

2: Ch 1 and turn. [Sc in next 3, Hdc in next 4, Dc in next 10*, Hdc in next 4, Sc in next 3] (2 Sc, Ch 2, 2 Sc) in Ch 2 Sp. Repeat from [ to ] on the opposite side.

Repeat row 2 adding an additional 2 Dc to the Bold number until you reach the size you would like. I repeated this row 4 times. If you would like larger or smaller fins, repeat it more or less times.

Sc around and fasten off leaving enough of a tail to sew fins onto the bottom of tail.        

Dinosaur Spikes:
These were simple 1/2 granny squares that I made using 2 strands of yarn instead of 1 so that they stand up better.

Click here for a pattern on how to crochet 1/2 granny squares. This link includes both a written pattern and charts.


As always have fun with this pattern and feel free to comment with any questions/sugestions/etc.

Stormi